String of Pearls Plant Care Guide
Your complete guide to nurturing a thriving String of Pearls
Your Plant's Story
This beautiful String of Pearls started its journey as a cutting from one of our thriving mother plants in our greenhouse. Each plant carries the strong genetics and resilient energy of its parent, carefully propagated and nurtured until ready for its new home.
The Magic: This trailing succulent creates cascading strands of perfect little "pearls" that look like nature's own jewelry box spilling over your shelves!
From African deserts to your space: Your String of Pearls' ancestors evolved in the dry, rocky regions of Southwest Africa, developing their unique bead-shaped leaves to store precious water in harsh desert conditions.
Hand-selected for you: Every Dirt Witch String of Pearls is chosen for its plump, healthy pearls, strong trailing growth, and that special succulent energy that makes them thrive as stunning hanging plants.
At a glance
Pet Safe
Non-toxic to cats and dogs - safe for furry family members
Bright Indirect Light
Loves bright spots but hates direct sun - think cozy reading nook lighting
Beginner-Intermediate
Perfect for plant parents ready to level up their care game
Plant Overview
Essential Care
Light
Perfect placement: Bright, indirect light - think of that sweet spot where you'd want to read a book with natural light, getting 6-8 hours of bright light daily
Best spot: Place where there's direct sunlight in the morning and indirect light in the afternoon - east-facing windows are ideal
Avoid: Direct harsh afternoon sun (will actually scorch those delicate pearls), or rooms that stay consistently dim
Too little light signs: Pearls become elongated and strands get thin and sparse - your plant is stretching desperately for more energy
Too much light signs: Pearls start to shrivel, get brown spots, or look bleached - your succulent is getting overwhelmed by intensity
Watering
Finding the rhythm: Your String of Pearls will teach you patience - water only when soil is completely dry, typically once every 7-14 days
Spring/Summer: Every 7-10 days when soil is bone dry (check by sticking your finger 1-2 inches into soil)
Fall/Winter: Every 2-3 weeks or even less frequently - your plant naturally slows down and needs much less water
Pro tip: Water thoroughly until it drains from the bottom, then wait for complete dryness before watering again - succulents appreciate this feast-or-famine approach
Signs it needs water: Pearls start to look slightly wrinkled, deflated, or less plump - nature's own thirst indicator
Signs of overwatering: Mushy, transparent, or easily falling pearls; soggy soil that doesn't dry out - your plant is drowning in too much love
Humidity
Desert vibes: 30-40% humidity - this succulent actually prefers drier air, just like its African homeland
Perfect environment: Normal household humidity is ideal - no need for extra moisture here
Avoid: High humidity environments, misting (can cause fungal problems), humid bathrooms
Winter care: Dry indoor air is actually perfect for this desert beauty
Temperature
Comfort zone: 70-80°F during growing season, 50-60°F during winter rest period
Avoid: Temperatures below 50°F, cold drafts, sudden temperature changes, rooms with high humidity like bathrooms
Winter care: Keep away from cold windows and heating vents; a cool-down period actually encourages blooming!
Soil & Feeding
Soil: Well-draining succulent or cactus mix - drainage is everything for healthy roots
Feeding schedule:
Growing season (Spring/Summer): Monthly with diluted succulent fertilizer
Dormant season (Fall/Winter): No feeding needed - let your plant rest
Fertilizer type: Balanced liquid fertilizer (like 10-10-10) diluted to half strength, or use a specialized cactus/succulent fertilizer
Winter feeding: No fertilizer during dormant months - your plant needs this rest period to potentially bloom in spring
Monthly Care Ritual
Every month, create a moment to connect with your trailing beauty:
Check those pearls: Feel for plumpness - wrinkled pearls mean watering time (this becomes a meditation on really observing your plants)
Inspect for pests: Look under the strands - succulents are usually pest-resistant but vigilance keeps them thriving
Gentle rotation: Turn the pot so all strands get equal light (like ensuring all parts of your life get attention)
Trim if needed: Pinch off any damaged pearls or overly long strands to encourage fuller growth
Check drainage: Make sure water flows freely - soggy soil is a succulent's biggest enemy
Growing season bonus ritual (Spring/Summer):
Offer diluted succulent fertilizer as gentle nourishment
Check for new growth points - String of Pearls grows quickly in warm weather
Consider propagation if strands are getting beautifully long
Propagation & Repotting Magic
When Your Plant Needs More Space
Every 2-3 years in spring, or when your plant starts sending you these signals:
Strands are so long they're touching the floor (time to share the wealth!)
Soil dries out extremely quickly after watering
The plant has simply outgrown its current hanging space and is ready to multiply
Think of repotting as giving your succulent room to develop even more trailing strands - like expanding your plant family naturally.
The Magic of Making More Plants
Best method: Stem cuttings or soil layering (it's like creating instant new plants!)
There's something magical about taking healthy strands and creating multiple new trailing beauties. Here's how to work this succulent magic:
Cut 4-6 inch strands from healthy growth - use sterilized pruning shears or scissors
Remove the bottom few pearls from the cutting to expose the nodes - these will become your roots
Let the cut ends dry for 1-2 days in a shaded spot - this prevents rot and helps roots form
Plant in cactus/succulent soil - bury the naked stem nodes and keep pearls above the soil
Place in bright, indirect light and keep soil slightly moist until roots establish (2-4 weeks)
Alternative method: Lay trailing pieces on top of soil while still attached - they'll root naturally!
Pro tip from one plant-obsessed person to another: Spring through early fall are the best times for propagation. You can also propagate in water first, then transfer to soil once roots develop. There's something deeply satisfying about watching your plant create its own abundance!
Common Visitors & How to Handle Them
-
The microscopic web weavers: These tiny visitors show up when the air gets too dry - they're basically telling you that both you and your plant need more moisture.
Signs: Fine webbing, tiny yellow/white spots on leaves, leaves looking dusty
Natural remedy: Increase humidity immediately (win-win!), wipe leaves with a damp cloth, spray with neem oil
-
The white cotton crashers: These little cotton-ball lookalikes love to hide in cozy leaf joints - they're drawn to stressed plants.
Signs: White cotton-like clusters in leaf crevices and stems
Gentle removal: Dab with rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab (they dissolve instantly), or use insecticidal soap spray
-
The tiny energy drainers: These small, soft-bodied insects cluster on new growth and leave sticky honeydew behind.
Signs: Sticky leaves, tiny green/black bugs, distorted new growth
Rebalancing: Spray off with water, wipe leaves with diluted neem oil solution
FAQ & Plant Wisdom
-
Hoya blooms are magical - clusters of waxy, star-shaped flowers that smell divine and can last several weeks! Most Hoyas need to be mature (2-3+ years), in bright light, and slightly root-bound to bloom.
The flowers emerge from peduncles (flower stalks) - never remove these even after blooming because they'll produce flowers again from the same spot!
-
This usually means too much direct sunlight is burning the delicate white variegation. Move your plant to bright, indirect light where the white portions are protected from intense sun. Think of it as giving your plant sunglasses!
Also, switch to filtered water if your tap water feels harsh - plants are sensitive to the same chemicals we try to avoid.
-
Hoyas are naturally slow growers, especially variegated varieties like Krimson Princess. They often focus energy on root development before visible growth. As long as leaves look healthy and you're following proper care, patience is key!
Growth typically picks up in spring and summer.
-
Absolutely! Hoyas are natural climbers, and providing a moss pole, trellis, or even just a wall to attach to will encourage more vigorous growth and potentially blooming.
You can also let them trail if you prefer that look.
-
Light pruning encourages branching! Cut just above a node (where leaves grow) and your Hoya will often produce two new branches from that spot.
Do this in spring when growth is most active.
-
Yes! Hoyas naturally have thick, waxy leaves that store water - this is what makes them relatively drought-tolerant and gives them that beautiful, substantial feel.
Healthy Hoya leaves should feel firm and slightly thick.
-
Wrinkled leaves usually mean your plant is thirsty! Check the soil - if it's dry, give it a good drink.
Hoyas store water in their thick leaves, so when they start to wrinkle, they're using up their reserves.
-
Absolutely! Water propagation works beautifully for Hoyas. Cut a stem with at least 2-3 nodes, place in water, and roots will develop in 2-4 weeks.
Change water every few days to keep it fresh.
-
Look at the variegation! In good light, the white and green contrast will be pronounced and beautiful.
In too little light, new leaves will be mostly green with little variegation.
Still need help?
Having trouble with your Hoya Krimson Princess? We are here to help!
Email us at hello@dirt-witch.com with photos of any issues
Send us a DM on Instagram @dirtwitch with your questions
Remember: Hoyas can take time to settle into new homes, but once they do, they're incredibly rewarding collector plants. Trust your instincts and observe what your plant is telling you through its leaves!
Happy growing!